First step –
discussion
discussion
At the beginning of the year I was approached and asked to develop a design for a tech jacket for a company, that wanted to get into the sports and apparel market. I present to you my experience of design management from defining problems, introducing concepts, sketching, developing patterns and working out the first models and samples.
Sport is movement, overcoming obstacles both around man and inside - fear and fatigue, laziness and doubt.
The main idea is to embody the image and style of the sportsman in his life outside the sports arena.
Being outside of an aggressive environment, a person should not lose confidence in movement (ergonomic cut), must be protected (technological materials), always be able to apply his skills and tools (functional storage system), remain himself (limited and capsule products) in any time (UNDERSTANDING design).
Now I have identified a number of brands that I would like to draw your attention to. Each of the brands has one thing in common - it draws inspiration from sports or military practicality. Here I want to equate sport = war, because I consider both these phenomena equal in the desire of a person to compete, overcome and win.
Nike ACG
Stone Island
Vollebak
CP Company
MA.Strum
Adidas
Nike Lab
ACRONYM
Christopher RAEBURN
Arc'teryx Veilance
Each of these brands has either a clear focus on functionality, or a separate product line of the sub-brand associated with a particular designer, fabric manufacturer or niche orientation. But all brands in the assortment have 4/5 understandable-simple products and 1/5 experimental and difficult for the consumer.
The main idea is to embody the image and style of the sportsman in his life outside the sports arena.
Being outside of an aggressive environment, a person should not lose confidence in movement (ergonomic cut), must be protected (technological materials), always be able to apply his skills and tools (functional storage system), remain himself (limited and capsule products) in any time (UNDERSTANDING design).
Now I have identified a number of brands that I would like to draw your attention to. Each of the brands has one thing in common - it draws inspiration from sports or military practicality. Here I want to equate sport = war, because I consider both these phenomena equal in the desire of a person to compete, overcome and win.
Nike ACG
Stone Island
Vollebak
CP Company
MA.Strum
Adidas
Nike Lab
ACRONYM
Christopher RAEBURN
Arc'teryx Veilance
Each of these brands has either a clear focus on functionality, or a separate product line of the sub-brand associated with a particular designer, fabric manufacturer or niche orientation. But all brands in the assortment have 4/5 understandable-simple products and 1/5 experimental and difficult for the consumer.
So, 4/1 = Pro + with this formula I express my main idea, understandable modern design. Which I suggest to adhere to. You do not need to give people AGAIN typical T-shirts, sweatshirts and anoraks in two colors (or worse with camouflage on the top half of the jacket). Give people a T-shirt of good sporting fabric, a thick warm material jacket, a raincoat that will be made of a material that really protects against rain, but is more modern than tarpaulins or other polymeric materials that can not breathe. Fill the clear silhouettes with new details, correct the familiar patterns to the ideal and re-think the classics in modern materials and production possibilities. In the proportions 4 to 1, where 4 is the fullness of understanding, and 1 is what makes the product unique.
I'll explain simply with examples. The most interesting player in the market of technological and casual clothes is Vollebak. The brand alone with the slogan "We make the future of adventure gear" makes it clear that we will see what's familiar to us in a new look. They have it, they do not create incomprehensible images of ninjas or techno warriors, all these subcultural trends are not for their audience. They give their consumer, understandable for 4/5 product with a new effect, which its 1/5 is admired. And the desire to acquire.
This way a familiar windbreaker with its practical functions of wind protection, low water resistance (enough for light rain or run under the shower) acquired the visibility properties at night SIMPLY + BRILLIANTLY.
4/5 is everyday, this CASUAL includes convenience - ergonomic fit and articular cut, which will give freedom of movement, quality fittings and fabric.
1/5 is an experiment, this is your branding - not a graphic placement of the logo, but a distinctive feature of your product.
On the example of VOLLEBAK The Solar Charged Jacket we see 4/5 this is a three-layer fabric weighing 230 grams, wind and waterproof properties (up to 2,500 mm), seam sealing, articular cut of shoulders and sleeves. Just pay attention to the habitual for outdoor and sport clothes hood with a regulation on the back of the head. It is worth mentioning that you can fold the windbreaker into your own pocket and squeeze it into a small bag.
I hope that I have succeeded in this example, on the basis of the not a well-known brand in Russia, to explain how easy it is to win trust, respect and the desire to buy through simplicity and real branding.
I could go for other interesting POSITIVE examples, but I think we will meet with them often during the development of PRO +
Therefore, before I offer my vision of the design of clothing, and specifically a technological jacket, I would like to focus attention not for long on NEGATIVE examples, which can be expressed in one phrase ...
I'll explain simply with examples. The most interesting player in the market of technological and casual clothes is Vollebak. The brand alone with the slogan "We make the future of adventure gear" makes it clear that we will see what's familiar to us in a new look. They have it, they do not create incomprehensible images of ninjas or techno warriors, all these subcultural trends are not for their audience. They give their consumer, understandable for 4/5 product with a new effect, which its 1/5 is admired. And the desire to acquire.
This way a familiar windbreaker with its practical functions of wind protection, low water resistance (enough for light rain or run under the shower) acquired the visibility properties at night SIMPLY + BRILLIANTLY.
4/5 is everyday, this CASUAL includes convenience - ergonomic fit and articular cut, which will give freedom of movement, quality fittings and fabric.
1/5 is an experiment, this is your branding - not a graphic placement of the logo, but a distinctive feature of your product.
On the example of VOLLEBAK The Solar Charged Jacket we see 4/5 this is a three-layer fabric weighing 230 grams, wind and waterproof properties (up to 2,500 mm), seam sealing, articular cut of shoulders and sleeves. Just pay attention to the habitual for outdoor and sport clothes hood with a regulation on the back of the head. It is worth mentioning that you can fold the windbreaker into your own pocket and squeeze it into a small bag.
I hope that I have succeeded in this example, on the basis of the not a well-known brand in Russia, to explain how easy it is to win trust, respect and the desire to buy through simplicity and real branding.
I could go for other interesting POSITIVE examples, but I think we will meet with them often during the development of PRO +
Therefore, before I offer my vision of the design of clothing, and specifically a technological jacket, I would like to focus attention not for long on NEGATIVE examples, which can be expressed in one phrase ...
WHAT? WHERE?WHEN?
WHAT is it? T-shirt? Hoodie? Dress? Why is the hood this way? Why is a pocket here? Why does this zipper come here?
WHERE do I wear this? How will people look at me? What happens if I come to work in this? What party should I wear this for?
WHEN should I wear it? How much time does it take to select pants / sneakers / outerwear / headgear / tattoo / piercing for this shit? Is it considered stylish (is this my style)? Fashionable (does a large group of consumers like it)? I wonder (will I encourage approving looks at myself in the crowd)?
All these things have the right to be. They are part of the world of fashion and art. They are not a mass product, they are not a product of daily use, not a product of common access. They are an individual product - from which they often have a high price, tied not at the cost of unique materials, but at the level of the author's fame.
WHERE do I wear this? How will people look at me? What happens if I come to work in this? What party should I wear this for?
WHEN should I wear it? How much time does it take to select pants / sneakers / outerwear / headgear / tattoo / piercing for this shit? Is it considered stylish (is this my style)? Fashionable (does a large group of consumers like it)? I wonder (will I encourage approving looks at myself in the crowd)?
All these things have the right to be. They are part of the world of fashion and art. They are not a mass product, they are not a product of daily use, not a product of common access. They are an individual product - from which they often have a high price, tied not at the cost of unique materials, but at the level of the author's fame.
Unfortunately, attempts to copy such a style with mass brands create either mutant-style or frankly Zashvkar ("to be shamed for …."- modern Russian slang)...
I finish my monologue, returning to the best of examples in the modern design of sports and casual clothes - VOLLEBAK.
A vivid example of how the idea of everyday middle layer could combine modern 3D scanning and practical clothing and give rise to Condition Black Motion Capture Midlayer
Some of us who were fascinated by the creation of 3D at least superficially know or heard about the markers that capture the movement of the person. How simple is the idea to replace markers with reflective points that give an understanding to the eye that in the darkness there is a person - after all we notice his movement of the torso, hands. It's brilliant.
If we take into account that all the technologies leading us into the future are striving for simplicity, lack of buttons, touchscreen, monoblock architecture and mobility, we can assume the following.
The future is not in complicated forms and ornaments, but in the simplicity of form, in which technology and functionality are clothed.
I finish my monologue, returning to the best of examples in the modern design of sports and casual clothes - VOLLEBAK.
A vivid example of how the idea of everyday middle layer could combine modern 3D scanning and practical clothing and give rise to Condition Black Motion Capture Midlayer
Some of us who were fascinated by the creation of 3D at least superficially know or heard about the markers that capture the movement of the person. How simple is the idea to replace markers with reflective points that give an understanding to the eye that in the darkness there is a person - after all we notice his movement of the torso, hands. It's brilliant.
If we take into account that all the technologies leading us into the future are striving for simplicity, lack of buttons, touchscreen, monoblock architecture and mobility, we can assume the following.
The future is not in complicated forms and ornaments, but in the simplicity of form, in which technology and functionality are clothed.
Isn't it so, cleric John Preston?
step one
Sketching conceptual sketches
THE MOST IMPORTANT IS TO DRAW YOUR IDEAS, TO CHECK THAT YOU DID NOT DO ANYTHING FROM THE FIELD OF FANTASTICS, AND THEN TO REFRESH your mind and redraw, SO TO REALIZE THIS FANTASTIC.
The main idea was to emphasize a person - to distinguish him from the crowd at a distance of more than 10-15 meters. Under the highlight, I mean not the brightness of the color, but the silhouette in the total mass of other shapeless spots of mass of people.
As a basis, we use a military jacket with two side zippers and introduce our functional changes. We improve freedom of movement through ergonomic cut, articular sleeves, anatomical hood and locate pockets on the principle of a gun holster.
The main material we will use is a membrane fabric that will give full moisture and wind protection, thanks to the properties of the fabric, as well as a technological solution - sealing the seams.
Front view: articular sleeves. On the wrists are the cuffs on the velcro tape. "Weapon" pockets also have an input on the buttons or velcro tape from the front. In the belly area is a small entrance to a small inner pocket. Also on the belly there is a velcro tape for attaching a bag-pocket. The hood has a tightening along the contour of the face and a visor for enhanced protection against rain.
View from the back: articular sleeves. On the hood in the are of the neck, a tightening-clamp for the hood. "Armory" pockets can be done with a hidden ventilation of the back. In the waist region, a zipper for access to a detachable pocket-pouch.
We propose gradually to introduce new modular systems in the clothing model, which will become increasingly popular with the buyer. For example, we offer a modular system with a bag-pouch.
The pocket can be located inside the jacket with access from the outside - according to the principle of bicycle ammunition. The bag can be taken off and fixed on Velcro elements on the belly area adding more pockets.
As a basis, we use a military jacket with two side zippers and introduce our functional changes. We improve freedom of movement through ergonomic cut, articular sleeves, anatomical hood and locate pockets on the principle of a gun holster.
The main material we will use is a membrane fabric that will give full moisture and wind protection, thanks to the properties of the fabric, as well as a technological solution - sealing the seams.
Front view: articular sleeves. On the wrists are the cuffs on the velcro tape. "Weapon" pockets also have an input on the buttons or velcro tape from the front. In the belly area is a small entrance to a small inner pocket. Also on the belly there is a velcro tape for attaching a bag-pocket. The hood has a tightening along the contour of the face and a visor for enhanced protection against rain.
View from the back: articular sleeves. On the hood in the are of the neck, a tightening-clamp for the hood. "Armory" pockets can be done with a hidden ventilation of the back. In the waist region, a zipper for access to a detachable pocket-pouch.
We propose gradually to introduce new modular systems in the clothing model, which will become increasingly popular with the buyer. For example, we offer a modular system with a bag-pouch.
The pocket can be located inside the jacket with access from the outside - according to the principle of bicycle ammunition. The bag can be taken off and fixed on Velcro elements on the belly area adding more pockets.
step two
Development of patterns and tailoring of layouts
Starting from the sketches and comments of the designer, the designer of the patterns creates the drawings of the details of the jacket. The process is more than similar to creating an architecture - when out of the emotional outline of the architect and the technical drawing, the structural design of the entire building, the facades and other construction structure are drawn with the engineer's confident hand.
The next stage is a woven layout. This stage is very important, because it allows you to reduce financial costs when making corrections to the layout, rather than in the sample of the release version. This layout, like the paper layout of the building on a small scale, allows you to understand the proportions of the product, its style and fit, as well as the functionality reducing the cost of testing the design.
ALL LAYOUTS AND SAMPLES AFTER MANUFACTURE ARE PHOTOGRAPHED, FOR PHOTO-ARCHIVE, AND FOR EDITING IN PHOTOSHOP - APPLYING IDENTICS AND CHANGING ELEMENTS BY METHOD OF MATTE PAINTING.
As it often happens, your customer needs everything yesterday. Therefore, we completed a number of complex works in 2 weeks, which allowed us to quickly understand what we really need from this design.
List of works on the development of the first sample:
- discussion of the conceptual sketch
- development of patterns by designer
- sewing of a fabric model by tailor with author's supervision
- camouflage designed by the designer is applied to the membrane tissue
- selection of accessories
- sewing a sample in the ski workshop
- counting of the workshop hours of sewing
- drawing up of the cost estimate for the product
- counting the pricing
After the work was done and we showed the customer a sample, it was decided to make the following changes:
- The distance between the frontal zippers is shortened - brought closer to the chest.
- one of the zippers is shorten and left for ventilation
- hide the hidden pocket on the abdomen
- pockets on both sides of the chest in the armpit area:
- Move closer to the center of the chest
- change the shape - from hinged over zippers into the inner pockets with a cut-in entrance with a zipper from the outside
- remove the modular pocket, as it was decided to abandon the idea of modular additional elements.
An interesting observation: the customer was offered a solution with a pocket for the purpose of distributing the jacket among cyclists, but they refused because of fear that a back pocket would facilitate the possibility of theft.
List of works on the development of the first sample:
- discussion of the conceptual sketch
- development of patterns by designer
- sewing of a fabric model by tailor with author's supervision
- camouflage designed by the designer is applied to the membrane tissue
- selection of accessories
- sewing a sample in the ski workshop
- counting of the workshop hours of sewing
- drawing up of the cost estimate for the product
- counting the pricing
After the work was done and we showed the customer a sample, it was decided to make the following changes:
- The distance between the frontal zippers is shortened - brought closer to the chest.
- one of the zippers is shorten and left for ventilation
- hide the hidden pocket on the abdomen
- pockets on both sides of the chest in the armpit area:
- Move closer to the center of the chest
- change the shape - from hinged over zippers into the inner pockets with a cut-in entrance with a zipper from the outside
- remove the modular pocket, as it was decided to abandon the idea of modular additional elements.
An interesting observation: the customer was offered a solution with a pocket for the purpose of distributing the jacket among cyclists, but they refused because of fear that a back pocket would facilitate the possibility of theft.
MATTE
PAINTING*
PAINTING*
* technology combined photo shooting, in which the full-scale part of the frame is combined with the picture to create an illusion of the environment, which for some reason can not be directly reproduced
Having received all the wishes of the customer and armed with photo editors, I began experiments with photos of fabric models and camouflage pattern.
This method of digital editing allows you to more clearly understand the further changes in the design and make a clearer technical specification for the designer of the patterns, having previously approved the photomontage with the customer.
As a result of the experiments, two solutions were born that met both the customer's requirements and modern trends in the technological design of outerwear.
This method of digital editing allows you to more clearly understand the further changes in the design and make a clearer technical specification for the designer of the patterns, having previously approved the photomontage with the customer.
As a result of the experiments, two solutions were born that met both the customer's requirements and modern trends in the technological design of outerwear.
New solution –
new concepts
new concepts
When asked to copy, you refuse and review trends.
Alas, modern realities dictate to increase speed, and this often gives rise to bad ideas, as for example plagiarism.
It was suggested that I should closely look at the Nike ACG - to which I immediately noticed that it does not make sense to copy both for me and for them. Therefore, I suggested to reconsider the trends of technological jackets that are habitual to the eye, and to change and add our own solutions.
So two decisions were born. First: the edited design based on the military curtain and my sketch from which we started. Second: armed with the Nike ACG reference I broke down to analyze and observe the stylistic similarity with my proposal for design functionality.
So two decisions were born. First: the edited design based on the military curtain and my sketch from which we started. Second: armed with the Nike ACG reference I broke down to analyze and observe the stylistic similarity with my proposal for design functionality.
step three
Sampling in the shop
FABRIC MAKET JACKET-01
WITH THIS FABRIC SAMPLE, TIME IS GREATLY REDUCED FROM THE SAMPLing OF THE JACKET FROM THE MEMBRAIN FABRIC IN THE SHOP WHEN MANUFACTURING.
WITH THIS FABRIC SAMPLE, TIME IS GREATLY REDUCED FROM THE SAMPLing OF THE JACKET FROM THE MEMBRAIN FABRIC IN THE SHOP WHEN MANUFACTURING.
Offset of the zipper
Main zipper runs from the side, emphasizing the sporty design of the jacket.
To maintain the symmetry of the image with open zippers, the zippered bar is made wide, giving the image a classic double-breasted style.
The main zipper passes from the side, but it easily closes and opens
Collar
High collar stand with additional zipper for ventilation - allows you to open the jacket not completely.
Sealing the seam
Locking seams does provide reliability and reinforces the resistance from rupture. The elements that are subjected to pressure are sealed from the outside - analog Nike ACG
Hood
The hood has two systems of adjusters - the back and the oval around the face.
The cord around the face is located in the tunnel, according to the principle of traditional and sportive winter jackets.
Anatomical pockets
Pockets are located in the area of the oblique muscles of the ribs and have an accessible distance of entrance from the chest. The depth of the pockets allows you not to worry forgetting to zip up your pocket; something cannot easily fall out of it.
Pockets on the hand
The pocket on the hand is made on the principle of a military pocket of NATO forces.
It is attached to the sleeve by means of a Velcro tape. Also has a soft Velcro tape on the front side to secure the patch.
Back and fitting
Preserved V-shaped silhouette, without fanaticism giving freedom of movement to the athlete.
Reflective details
Drawing elements of identity, as well as graphic symbols on the fabric of the top with the help of a thermo press.
The graphic image is made in a vector format, cuts out of a film that has different color shades under daylight and a common white reflective color
Main zipper runs from the side, emphasizing the sporty design of the jacket.
To maintain the symmetry of the image with open zippers, the zippered bar is made wide, giving the image a classic double-breasted style.
The main zipper passes from the side, but it easily closes and opens
Collar
High collar stand with additional zipper for ventilation - allows you to open the jacket not completely.
Sealing the seam
Locking seams does provide reliability and reinforces the resistance from rupture. The elements that are subjected to pressure are sealed from the outside - analog Nike ACG
Hood
The hood has two systems of adjusters - the back and the oval around the face.
The cord around the face is located in the tunnel, according to the principle of traditional and sportive winter jackets.
Anatomical pockets
Pockets are located in the area of the oblique muscles of the ribs and have an accessible distance of entrance from the chest. The depth of the pockets allows you not to worry forgetting to zip up your pocket; something cannot easily fall out of it.
Pockets on the hand
The pocket on the hand is made on the principle of a military pocket of NATO forces.
It is attached to the sleeve by means of a Velcro tape. Also has a soft Velcro tape on the front side to secure the patch.
Back and fitting
Preserved V-shaped silhouette, without fanaticism giving freedom of movement to the athlete.
Reflective details
Drawing elements of identity, as well as graphic symbols on the fabric of the top with the help of a thermo press.
The graphic image is made in a vector format, cuts out of a film that has different color shades under daylight and a common white reflective color
PRELIMINARY FABRIC JACKET-02. THIS MODEL IS THE AUXILIARY ELEMENT IN THE CHAIN OF THE SAMPLE PRODUCTION IN THE WORKSHOP FOR SEWING A JACKET.
Two-way moisture proof zipper.
The main zipper is classical - in the center.
Collar
High collar stand with additional zipper for ventilation - allows not to open the jacket completely.
Pockets on the hand
The pocket on the hand is made on the principle of a military pocket of NATO forces.
It is attached to the sleeve by means of a Velcro tape. Also has a soft Velcro tape on the front side to secure the patch.
Hood
The hood has two systems of adjusters - the back and the oval around the face.
The cord around the face is located in the tunnel, according to the principle of traditional and sportive winter jackets.
Pocket on the left side of the breast
The system of pockets on the left side of the breast hidden under a large detail and a moisture-proof spiral zipper
Pocket on the left side of the breast - organizer
A convenient and roomy pocket is ergonomically positioned at an angle and accommodates the dimensions of the latest versions of smartphones.
Pocket on the left side of the breast - separation
At the bottom of the pocket there is a dividing bar, according to the principle of the dividing bar at the bottom of the backpack. Now it is possible to divide, what is thrown to the bottom of the pocket.
Pocket on the right side of the breast
A unique redesigned system based on the reference of Nike ACG.
Unlike Nike, this overhanging element of cut is not a pocket - it's a large safety valve on two spiral zippers that close the system of pockets.
Pocket on the right side of the breast - organizer
Vertical zipper opens access to the pocket and pocket organizer symmetrically located and mirror-executed organizer pocket on the right chest.
Pocket on the right side of the breast – hidden depth
Horizontal zipper under the valve gives access to the hidden depth of the pocket.
Thus, having thrown things through a vertical input - it is possible to get them from a horizontal exit
Pocket on the right side of the breast – fully open
Opening both zippers can open the entire system outside. Full access to the organizer and hidden pocket depth.
Reflective elements
The application of the identity elements, as well as graphic symbols on the fabric of the top with the help of a thermo press.
The graphic image is made in a vector format, cut from a membrane that has different color shades under daylight and a common white reflective color
The main zipper is classical - in the center.
Collar
High collar stand with additional zipper for ventilation - allows not to open the jacket completely.
Pockets on the hand
The pocket on the hand is made on the principle of a military pocket of NATO forces.
It is attached to the sleeve by means of a Velcro tape. Also has a soft Velcro tape on the front side to secure the patch.
Hood
The hood has two systems of adjusters - the back and the oval around the face.
The cord around the face is located in the tunnel, according to the principle of traditional and sportive winter jackets.
Pocket on the left side of the breast
The system of pockets on the left side of the breast hidden under a large detail and a moisture-proof spiral zipper
Pocket on the left side of the breast - organizer
A convenient and roomy pocket is ergonomically positioned at an angle and accommodates the dimensions of the latest versions of smartphones.
Pocket on the left side of the breast - separation
At the bottom of the pocket there is a dividing bar, according to the principle of the dividing bar at the bottom of the backpack. Now it is possible to divide, what is thrown to the bottom of the pocket.
Pocket on the right side of the breast
A unique redesigned system based on the reference of Nike ACG.
Unlike Nike, this overhanging element of cut is not a pocket - it's a large safety valve on two spiral zippers that close the system of pockets.
Pocket on the right side of the breast - organizer
Vertical zipper opens access to the pocket and pocket organizer symmetrically located and mirror-executed organizer pocket on the right chest.
Pocket on the right side of the breast – hidden depth
Horizontal zipper under the valve gives access to the hidden depth of the pocket.
Thus, having thrown things through a vertical input - it is possible to get them from a horizontal exit
Pocket on the right side of the breast – fully open
Opening both zippers can open the entire system outside. Full access to the organizer and hidden pocket depth.
Reflective elements
The application of the identity elements, as well as graphic symbols on the fabric of the top with the help of a thermo press.
The graphic image is made in a vector format, cut from a membrane that has different color shades under daylight and a common white reflective color
