Poncho.
(Spanish poncho , borrowed from Araucan, Quechua or Mapudungun) - Latin American traditional outerwear in the form of a large rectangular piece of cloth with a hole for your head in the middle.
This simple solution, which came from the cultural heritage of one people, was firmly entrenched and subsequently applied in many countries of the world, as protection against rain.
A simple form closes a person completely. It was only necessary to produce a product made of moisture-resistant fabric, and it was not possible to imagine better protection. Naturally, such an innovation was applied first in the military industry.
The use of raincoats and tents by soldiers to protect against the weather is noted for a long time. For example, in Russia, a tent designed for six lower ranks and intended for use in wartime and maneuvers, was introduced in 1865.
The progenitor of the cloak-tents can be considered a cape, which was used in the Russian army since the time of Peter I. Such coats with a collar-hood appeared in 1761. In the same year, Cloak-tents were actively used as part of military equipment in the second half of the XIX century. In Russia, in standard equipment of officers, waterproof cloak-cape came in 1894. In the Soviet period to supply the command and rank-and-file of rifle units, the Red Army introduced such coats in 1936.
To protect themselves from bad weather, servicemen used them as cloaks. When cloaks were placed on the ground, tents were built out of them for the personnel of the infantry unit, also cloths of raincoat-tents were used for the construction of canopies, shelters, covering open trenches, entrances to dugouts and huts. In addition, the cloth of the raincoat-tents served as bedding and blankets. In 1942, the defense industry began to produce a fabric with two-sided camouflage, to improve the camouflage properties of the cloth raincoat.
There were similar tents in foreign armies. As soon as the soldier personally carried the components of the tent, in those same years a thought arose to adapt cloths as means of individual protection from the weather. By the beginning of the First World War, armies of almost all countries had field tents, many models of which could be used as raincoats.
Such, for example, is the Austrian tent-raincoat, used in this country before its absorption by Germany. The square with a side of about 183 cm was made out of yellow-brown canvas and had wooden pegs for assembly. From the inside of the panel, about 60 cm from the top, a lace was sewn, which, when tightened, the soldier received a raincoat. Together, two raincoats formed a tent of about 3.34 m² for two people. Rifle with an attached bayonet was used as a pole during the installation of the tent,. In the 1930s, the color of the cloth changed to gray. In the same years, a similar tent was used in the Czechoslovak army, characterized by a green-brown color of the fabric and partially lined with brass eyelets.
The French used the rain tent model of 1897. It was made of light brown canvas and was almost square: in length - 160 cm, width - 150 cm. When used as a raincoat, a short cord was fastened around the neck, fixed on the upper edge of the cloth; A long cord, sewn in the middle, was tied around the waist of the soldier. Other armies of the countries participating in the First World War also had camping tents-raincoats.
Such, for example, is the Austrian tent-raincoat, used in this country before its absorption by Germany. The square with a side of about 183 cm was made out of yellow-brown canvas and had wooden pegs for assembly. From the inside of the panel, about 60 cm from the top, a lace was sewn, which, when tightened, the soldier received a raincoat. Together, two raincoats formed a tent of about 3.34 m² for two people. Rifle with an attached bayonet was used as a pole during the installation of the tent,. In the 1930s, the color of the cloth changed to gray. In the same years, a similar tent was used in the Czechoslovak army, characterized by a green-brown color of the fabric and partially lined with brass eyelets.
The French used the rain tent model of 1897. It was made of light brown canvas and was almost square: in length - 160 cm, width - 150 cm. When used as a raincoat, a short cord was fastened around the neck, fixed on the upper edge of the cloth; A long cord, sewn in the middle, was tied around the waist of the soldier. Other armies of the countries participating in the First World War also had camping tents-raincoats.
The Japanese tent was 146 cm long and 141 cm wide. It was used in World War II, made of light khaki canvas and supplied with aluminum fasteners, thanks to which the halves of the tent were easily connected together. At the same time, by connecting the cord with rings located along the sides of the tent, you could get a raincoat. In other countries there were interesting options for hiking tents-ponchos.
So, after the military formation, the raincoat-poncho becomes a must-have for walkers and athletes.
Cycling has perfectly adopted this simple and functional design. There were even kinds of raincoats, protecting not only the cyclist, but also covering the bike itself.
Not surprisingly, such a popular model in the modern world has densely entered the urban environment. Different brands began to pay attention to the raincoat-poncho, and, following the trends, to offer a more convenient, technological and functional design. Not only clothing brands took a notice.
Roketbank is a digital bank that offers its customers not only a unique service, but also interesting products: various merch from t-shirts to sweaters, pleasant useful things like power banks and so on.
So, after the military formation, the raincoat-poncho becomes a must-have for walkers and athletes.
Cycling has perfectly adopted this simple and functional design. There were even kinds of raincoats, protecting not only the cyclist, but also covering the bike itself.
Not surprisingly, such a popular model in the modern world has densely entered the urban environment. Different brands began to pay attention to the raincoat-poncho, and, following the trends, to offer a more convenient, technological and functional design. Not only clothing brands took a notice.
Roketbank is a digital bank that offers its customers not only a unique service, but also interesting products: various merch from t-shirts to sweaters, pleasant useful things like power banks and so on.
One of the founders has my coat from Nameless last line, made of the French membrane Porelle. After bringing her up to speed in the issue of raincoats, Maria, the head of RocketShop, offered to do something together for the customers of Rocketbank.
Just then, NIke released its new collection of Nike ACG lineup led by Errolson Hugh.
We have analyzed all the examples: what silhouettes are produced by other brands, how the form complements the graphic design and how many functionalities in such a simple form are made by world leaders in the production of clothing.
The task was not easy - it was necessary not only to uphold the quality, but also to get within a certain budgetary framework. That makes the task even more interesting.
To pick up not simply accessible fabric, but also to develop a design so that the price of its tailoring suited the customer.
Just then, NIke released its new collection of Nike ACG lineup led by Errolson Hugh.
We have analyzed all the examples: what silhouettes are produced by other brands, how the form complements the graphic design and how many functionalities in such a simple form are made by world leaders in the production of clothing.
The task was not easy - it was necessary not only to uphold the quality, but also to get within a certain budgetary framework. That makes the task even more interesting.
To pick up not simply accessible fabric, but also to develop a design so that the price of its tailoring suited the customer.
step one
Development of patterns
So, the history course is over. Now to the point.
I got the idea to make a poncho after I saw the white poncho by Nike ACG. Simple design + maximum functionality. Having looked through the options, I decided not to do too simple a product - I wanted to do an amazing silhouette and solve the main problems that arise when a raincoat of this kind is worn.
The first thing you had to solve was to assemble the raincoat itself. In many models, this is done in a separate bag, which is attached to the poncho. Or folds into the hood. Therefore, in order to be slightly more original, we placed a poncho inside the pouch on the stomach, turning it inside out, you can put a poncho and close it with a two-way zipper.
The second problem is the open edges of the raincoat. The poncho does not have sleeves that would protect hands, without the risk of exposing the insides and moisture getting under the poncho during rainfall. The reason is simple - lack of cuffs. Dividing the detail of the poncho, starting from the shoulder according to the principle of the sleeve of Reglan, in two, we set 2 buttons for fixing and adjusting the wrist. Now the poncho had sleeves.
But then there is a second problem: when there was freedom for the hands during the rain, you need to be able to get something from under the poncho, for example from the pants pocket. For this, a slit is made at the level of the belt, covered by a piece of membrane
IN DIFFERENCE FROM HISTORY ON THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE TECHNOLOGICAL JACKET, WE HAVE MISSED THE RANGE OF STEPS - SKETCHES AND TISSUE LAYOUT. DEVELOPMENT OF VECTOR IS IMMEDIATELY IN THE SHOP - THING IS MORE-LESS THAN EASY FOR THE EXPERT SKI WORKSHOP. THEREFORE WE MISSED THE STAGE.
step two
Sewing samples
FIRST SAMPLE OF THE PONCHO-RAINCOAT
EXECUTED FROM 2 LAYERED MEMBRANE FABRIC
WITH PUNCHED SEAMS
EXECUTED FROM 2 LAYERED MEMBRANE FABRIC
WITH PUNCHED SEAMS
The first sample
My height is 188 cm. On the first sample we determined that our product range will be only 2 types - for people with a height of and more than 175 cm. We also tested this size grid on Rocketbank employees - from well-proportioned managers to huge pumped programmers (there are some hardcore programmers in Roketbank).
It was important to make sure that with differences in height, hands fall into the pockets of the trousers through the slit in the raincoat. And also to test the fixation of the sleeve cuff of the poncho.
The hood was made in the classic style for outdoor products - tightening straps on the face oval and on the back of the head, for a better fit to the volume of the head.
The back of the poncho is a couple of centimeters lower than usual. Someone will say that with such a length of product and freedom of cut it will not play a special role, but, as practice shows, an elongated back in any kind of raincoat increases the level of protection of the waist from moisture and wind.
In the first sample, we used a 2-layer laminated membrane fabric from TORAY.
The price of fabric was at that time $ 6.00 per running meter. Taking into account the consumption of fabric - 2.6 meters per product, calculated for a person above average growth. Accordingly, the cost of the product only for the main material at the time of writing the blog (08/09/2018 $ 1.00 = 69.03 ₽ ) is 1076.868 ₽ .
Not expensive, but does not fit into the budget.
Therefore, we began to search for alternatives, since besides the price we were not satisfied with one more thing - the fabric was black, without the possibility to put on it your graphic pattern.
My height is 188 cm. On the first sample we determined that our product range will be only 2 types - for people with a height of and more than 175 cm. We also tested this size grid on Rocketbank employees - from well-proportioned managers to huge pumped programmers (there are some hardcore programmers in Roketbank).
It was important to make sure that with differences in height, hands fall into the pockets of the trousers through the slit in the raincoat. And also to test the fixation of the sleeve cuff of the poncho.
The hood was made in the classic style for outdoor products - tightening straps on the face oval and on the back of the head, for a better fit to the volume of the head.
The back of the poncho is a couple of centimeters lower than usual. Someone will say that with such a length of product and freedom of cut it will not play a special role, but, as practice shows, an elongated back in any kind of raincoat increases the level of protection of the waist from moisture and wind.
In the first sample, we used a 2-layer laminated membrane fabric from TORAY.
The price of fabric was at that time $ 6.00 per running meter. Taking into account the consumption of fabric - 2.6 meters per product, calculated for a person above average growth. Accordingly, the cost of the product only for the main material at the time of writing the blog (08/09/2018 $ 1.00 = 69.03 ₽ ) is 1076.868 ₽ .
Not expensive, but does not fit into the budget.
Therefore, we began to search for alternatives, since besides the price we were not satisfied with one more thing - the fabric was black, without the possibility to put on it your graphic pattern.
step three
Development of graphic design
Most of the products we buy get us by the "wow effect" and this effect depends on the graphic and visual component of the product. The most striking example - T-shirts. We buy more often not a product with a graphic image, but a visual language that is done by the product. Logo, illustration, text message - that's the subject of the original reason for the purchase. We buy the name printed on the product. And only after the first socks, T-shirts or sweatshirts, we pay attention to the product itself - how quickly the fabric wears out, stretches, the elbows are wiped, the collar deformed.
How often do we use these or other functions of the product - be it pockets that are either small or too deep? Certainly, some of us, buying a thing, pay more attention to it than others. And some of these people eventually come to minimalism, ready to answer the questions of friends and acquaintances, why they wear this or that cool thing that does not have a visually bright graphic value.
The most important thing in the product image is to preserve the aesthetic of the brand, its visual language, attractiveness and all this can not to be spoiled by low quality and overpricing.
The most important thing in the product image is to preserve the aesthetic of the brand, its visual language, attractiveness and all this can not to be spoiled by low quality and overpricing.
Gleb Kirenkov, [May 30, 2018, 14:12:06]:
Lets make hieroglyphs more geometric?
just Vasya can screw up the hieroglyphs
and if they are made more technogenic
You can tell that it's a style
I ll give you references
Nikita Vasilevsky, [May 30, 2018, 14:13:54]:
Well, I need to explain to him what is fashionable
Gleb Kirenkov, [May 30, 2018, 14:13:59]:
just now you have it similar to what you were doing when you wrote Rocketbank in Chinese, and in techwear there is not a lot of round and here's an example of a guy who does a lot of graphics in this thread
...
Nikita Vasilevsky, [May 30, 2018, 17:39:04]:
Has left to smoke and has thought up
In my opinion it's fucking amazing
Gleb Kirenkov , [May 30, 2018, 17:40:44]:
Fuck
Yes
Fuck yeah.
Throw vectors
Make it in gray and black
And on black reflective gray
Make a sample
Show to Vasya and Masha
Tell me that I am wildly for this
...
In general, as you could already understand, getting Nikita to do graphics for the product is a pleasure.
Now I give examples of the stages of development of the poncho identity, based on the reports of the Ministry of Emergencies and Nike ACG.
As for me, the idea was in the air, in the literal sense of the word. Rainy Moscow days, damp air, daily reports from Ministry of Emergencies (MoE sends out messages during bad weather to all citizens - translator's note,) - all this was perfectly embodied in the visual language of the product.
Lets make hieroglyphs more geometric?
just Vasya can screw up the hieroglyphs
and if they are made more technogenic
You can tell that it's a style
I ll give you references
Nikita Vasilevsky, [May 30, 2018, 14:13:54]:
Well, I need to explain to him what is fashionable
Gleb Kirenkov, [May 30, 2018, 14:13:59]:
just now you have it similar to what you were doing when you wrote Rocketbank in Chinese, and in techwear there is not a lot of round and here's an example of a guy who does a lot of graphics in this thread
...
Nikita Vasilevsky, [May 30, 2018, 17:39:04]:
Has left to smoke and has thought up
In my opinion it's fucking amazing
Gleb Kirenkov , [May 30, 2018, 17:40:44]:
Fuck
Yes
Fuck yeah.
Throw vectors
Make it in gray and black
And on black reflective gray
Make a sample
Show to Vasya and Masha
Tell me that I am wildly for this
...
In general, as you could already understand, getting Nikita to do graphics for the product is a pleasure.
Now I give examples of the stages of development of the poncho identity, based on the reports of the Ministry of Emergencies and Nike ACG.
As for me, the idea was in the air, in the literal sense of the word. Rainy Moscow days, damp air, daily reports from Ministry of Emergencies (MoE sends out messages during bad weather to all citizens - translator's note,) - all this was perfectly embodied in the visual language of the product.
step four
Work out the product and run the circulation
So, after working off the graphic design in Photoshop using the overlay method, we proceeded to sew the production sample. Having placed the graphic filling on a technical drawing under the guidance of the designer of patterns, we arranged details on a cut.
A distinctive feature of this product is that the circulation was not cut in mass, but each piece was cut out separately, the curves were printed together with the graphic design directly on the roll.
Now about the fabric. We used an inexpensive Korean 2-layer membrane fabric with an additional water repellent.
The result - expensive manual sewing work was compensated for inexpensive, but suitable for the promotional product, cloth.
As a result of good teamwork, we received a unique product that has no equal in the niche of bank attributes for customers. Separately, we should note the photo shoot, which will be presented below - performed on pure enthusiasm, with the observance of professional experience - Nikita and Maria managed to present our first joint product in the shortest possible time.
In addition to white ponchos, variations of a different color and with a simpler application of the Roketbank logo were also made. All variants of the poncho are available to the bank's customers, subject to certain requirements – it can be bought by a sufficient amount of special currency - the Rocketrubles.
In the meantime, let's take another look at this cool raincoat =)
In the meantime, let's take another look at this cool raincoat =)
A classic anatomical hood with tightening adjustments along the face contour and on the occiput, made of black cord for contrast and observance of the graphic code.
The pocket in the abdominal area can hold EDC, protecting it from the rain. If necessary, turns inside out, getting the poncho in, and fastens on the inverted zipper.
"Cuffs" are fixed to the buttons in two places for different wrists - thin and wide. Also, the poncho size range has 2 types - for those above the average (and more often this is a masculine size) and for those of medium height or lower (more often female size).
A roll dye sublimation seal was used - several hundred meters of white fabric, on which we printed details with a graphic design.
Korean double-layer membrane fabric, sewn using all the rules for protection from rain - each seam is sealed under pressure by an elastic film with an adhesive layer.
And all this is done with care for customers.
The pocket in the abdominal area can hold EDC, protecting it from the rain. If necessary, turns inside out, getting the poncho in, and fastens on the inverted zipper.
"Cuffs" are fixed to the buttons in two places for different wrists - thin and wide. Also, the poncho size range has 2 types - for those above the average (and more often this is a masculine size) and for those of medium height or lower (more often female size).
A roll dye sublimation seal was used - several hundred meters of white fabric, on which we printed details with a graphic design.
Korean double-layer membrane fabric, sewn using all the rules for protection from rain - each seam is sealed under pressure by an elastic film with an adhesive layer.
And all this is done with care for customers.
